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There are a number of reasons why travelers take the time to make the journey to Gilgit's Phander Valley. One of the primary draws is Phander Lake, located at the head of the valley. This picturesque high-altitude lake provides stunning views of nearby mountains and coniferous forests. It is located along the same route as Shandur Pass, which connects Chitral to Ghizer, and is the location of the well-known Shandur Polo Festival. If one is in the area, a visit to the Pass and attendance at the Festival is definitely worthwhile.
Because travel to the various regions of Gilgit-Baltistan has increased in recent years, some of the under developed valleys have begun to see a slight increase in tourism as well. The Ghizer District is one of those areas, with the Phander Valley located at the end of the District. The long winding road leading from Gilgit takes roughly three to four hours to cover under normal road conditions. Compared to some of the more developed areas in the region, this isolation deters many travelers.
Mountain views help make up the scenery of the area, with Phander Lake providing a beautiful Forester backdrop. Boating and fishing are a couple of the activities offered at the lake. The fishing is especially popular due to the stocking of the lake with brown trout.
Also beyond the lake, the Ghizer Valley Road takes you to smaller and beautiful valleys with unique villages. Taking the time to appreciate the scenic views along this road during your journey from Gilgit to the lake pays dividends.
A. From Gilgit
The Gilgit to Phander route is within the Ghizer Valley and is the more convenient and shorter route to Phander. It touches Ghizar district capital, Gahkuch, and then moves on to Gupis before reaching Phander. Covering an approximate distance of 190 to 200km from Gilgit to Phander, the road can be covered in about 3 to 4 hours if the road conditions are normal.
Although the main Gilgit to Phander route is tarmac, other routes are in a mountainous condition and can only be covered by a high-clearance vehicle. A normal vehicle can cover the main Phander route in most seasons.
B. From Islamabad
From Islamabad, you can also take the route to Gilgit via the air or road and take the Ghizar Valley route to reach Phander. The road to Gilgit from Islamabad, covering a distance of 560 to 580 km, can be covered in about 12 to 13 hours with an overnight stop at Besham or Chilas. From Gilgit to Phander takes about 3 to 4 hours.
Flights from Islamabad to Gilgit are weather dependent and there are delays and cancellations at Gilgit airport. Because of these challenges, a road backup plan is a good idea. Many travelers feel that flying to Gilgit and then driving to Phander is doable in one day.
The Shandur Pass is located at an elevation of approx. 13,234 ft and connects Chitral with Phander. The road on the Pass is only open from about June to August, or so, based on the annual snow fall. It takes about 8 hours to drive from Chitral to Phander via Shandur. Because of the rugged nature of the road and the high altitude of the Pass, an all wheel drive vehicle is required.
Many travelers cross Shandur Pass when they visit Phander and Chitral in combination. You can cross the Pass in either direction. Many travelers feel that crossing the Pass from Chitral to Phander gives a better and earlier view of Phander Lake. Make arrangements to cross the Pass no more than 7 days before your planned travel date as the Shandur Pass road is closed the rest of the year.
The main body of water is long and thin with irregular shaped shores. Much of the land surrounding the lake is steep and covered in woods which provide a backdrop that gives the lake a more completed look.
The main town, Phander, is located along the shores of the lake. There are a few small, family-owned lodges and restaurants located in and around town. The facilities in the town, and the surrounding area, are quite rustic.
There are motorized and row boats for hire that provide a different perspective of the surrounding mountains.
A popular activity at the lake is fishing. The Ghizer River and the lake are stocked with brown trout. For the best chances of a successful outing, a local guide is recommended. Since the fish are not always biting, it is recommended that you contact the guide service or the local fisherman to find out the conditions before heading out.
The lake shore walk takes roughly an hour. It offers different views of the surrounding area. Extending your walk into the village and other areas of the lower valley adds another two to three hours of easy hiking.
Located on the Gilgit-Gupis Route, Khalti Lake is on the way to Phander and is at a lower elevation. It is smaller and less well-known than Phander Lake and is worth a quick stop on your journey. Time spent here should be no more than 30 to 45 minutes.
The Ghizer Valley Route from Gilgit to Phander gives you a varied and constantly changing landscape. The lower sections of Ghizer are extremely dry and border on desert. The central and larger areas of Gupis open up to farmland. The upper regions of the valley lead you to Phander and Khunjerab Pass. This route is the goal of your trip.
Shandur Pass is located at approximately 3,734 meters and is on the Phander to Chitral Route. Like other high mountain passes, Shandur is narrow. However, the Pass is unique in that the high, wide plateau provides a good polo field. Each August, the Shandur Polo Festival is hosted at the Pass.
A day excursion from Phander to Shandur covers both the Pass and the plateau without entering Chitral. The drive from Phander to Shandur takes about two hours over a rough, but passable, road, in a good vehicle. A jeep with good clearance is a better choice than a sedan for this road.
Above Phander, at a higher elevation, is Handrap Lake. While it can be accessed from the valley below by road or on foot, the road and trails are difficult, and the lake can be difficult to find. A local guide can help. Phander Lake is more convenient and requires less effort. Handrap Lake can be included on a long day trip from Phander. Locals can help determine if the lake is even accessible.
The annual Shandur Polo Festival is a popular event that brings many visitors from within Pakistan and from abroad. The Festival is held at Shandur Pass and features traditional polo matches between teams from Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral. The matches are played at the world’s highest polo ground, 3,734 meters above sea level. The dates for the Festival are determined by the relevant authorities, and are not strictly fixed. To check the dates, or for more information, contact your tour operator or GB Tourism.
Accommodation during the Festival is limited and is taken months in advance. People wanting to visit the Festival from Phander have to finalize their transport and accommodation arrangements well in advance as well as plan how they will get through the crowds to the Festival.
The pass road and Phander become congested due to the visitors to the Festival. The main road to Phander becomes blocked a number of times and takes a long time to clear.
During the off-season, especially from November to April, the Karakoram Highway from Raikot Junction to Sauttal becomes blocked due to landslides and heavy snowfall. However, if the weather remains stable and the road is cleared, you can access the Ghizer valley during these months as well.
When planning your trip, take note of school holidays (especially July and August) and other festivals (Shandur Polo Festival) as these bring more visitors and mean that accommodation fills faster. September brings visitors who want to see the lake without the peak season crowds.
A) Ask before confirming
If a prospective guide holds a current Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department license. Request a copy of the license, and verify the number. A current-year license for a Gilgit-region guide would be preferable to one for a Hunza-region guide.
If a jeep would be provided for the day trip to Shandur or Handrap Lake. If a jeep is not provided, the road to Shandur and the Handrap Lake approach would be impassable.
How difficult it would be to obtain a trout fishing permit. A permit to fish in Ghizer District may or may not be granted; the status should be confirmed.
What kind of lodging has been booked in Phander. There are a limited number of rooms in Phander; during the Shandur Festival and on peak weekends in summer, all rooms may be booked.
B) Check conditions before leaving
Conditions on the Gilgit to Phander route. The section of the Khizar Valley highway through the Khizar Valley is relatively stable, though sometimes closed due to landslides and avalanches.
The condition of the road to Shandur Pass. Check conditions about a week before your planned trip.
If your trip is to attend the Shandur Polo Festival. Dates change and reports of last year's dates are not reliable.
C) Do not
Consider Phander as a day trip from Gilgit. The drive takes 6-8 hours round trip, and does not leave time to enjoy the lake. Three days is a better minimum to enjoy the lake and valley.
Not check the status of the Shandur Pass. The road may be closed, especially if you are planning to go in the early season.
Not make a reservation to attend the Shandur Polo Festival. The Festival brings a large number of visitors to the valley and combined with the limited number of lodging options, makes it necessary to have a reservation to be assured of a place to stay.
A) Where is Phander Valley?
Phander Valley is in Ghizer District, Gilgit-Baltistan, to the West of Gilgit, following the Ghizer River. It is approximately 190 to 200 kilometers from Gilgit, and takes 3 to 4 hours to drive there. It is on the Gilgit to Chitral road via Shandur.
B) What is Phander Lake?
A lake at an elevation of about 2900 m (9,510 ft.) on the Ghizer River, in Ghizer Valley is known as Phander Lake. It is known for its clear, blue water, and beautiful mountains. Trout fishing is popular here. Boating is also available. There are beautiful, forest covered slopes around the lake. Mountains surround the lake and provide a nice view.
C) What is the Shandur Polo Festival?
Every year in the month of July, the Shandur Polo Festival is held at Shandur Pass. Teams from Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral participate in this Festival. It is held to celebrate the merging of the two cultures of Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral. Shandur Pass is the highest location for Polo in the world.
D) Can I go to Phander Valley from Chitral?
Yes. Via the Shandur Pass. The Pass is open from July to September, and closed the rest of the year. The journey from Chitral to Phander via the Pass takes the entire day, and the Pass section requires a four wheel drive vehicle.
E) Is Phander Valley good for families?
Getting to Phander Valley by road is fairly easy and the main lake area has no long hikes. The drive from Gilgit can be long, but not difficult. A lake visit, a village visit, and a short boat ride can all be done by families with very little or no hiking. The Shandur day trip also has a rough jeep section that can be difficult for families.
F) What is the most appropriate time for visiting Phander?
The main season is from June to September. The water level in the lakes is low during June and July, making July the best month for clear lake waters and a green valley. September is the last month of the season, and lake waters start freezing over. The valley is quiet during this month and weather is still good. October is not a good month, as the upper roads are closed.
G) Are there hotels/lodges in Phander Valley?
Yes, basic hotels/lodges are available in Phander valley.
Yes, but not many. There are simple guesthouses owned by the Phander folks and some small basic hotels. The lodging options are limited. The simple lodging fills up during the Shandur Festival. Book with a reliable operator to arrange your stay.
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